A wee collection of my favourite shots from the tour, Sydney Summer Slop fast approaches and I will undoubtedly need to relive a few of these moments for vicarious stoke in the coming months!
Holy santa claus shit that was fun. A week of epic waves for 8 hours a day in 27 degree water and nary an unaffiliated soul in sight. Sumatra. Was. SICK! I was with dad and seven of his mates, a fun bunch of gents ranging between 35 and 45 years older than me. As one might assume, I happily sat inside the whole time as they scratched wide for the horizon, allowing me to positively feast.
Being in the ocean ranks highest in importance of all factors contributing to my ongoing happiness, I’m lucky to live in a coastal city to have been able to access such a critical tool I can use to maintain cognitive homeostasis
I arrived around five, knowing last light was at half-seven so I had a decent little session ahead of me. Nothing worse than racing the sunset. Except I guess racing towards a sick end section, starry-eyed with visions of sticking it like J-flo, then invariably fucking up in front of the local guy you were trying to impress.